Second time around and I think it’s safe to say the boyfriend and I enjoyed it just as much. Minimal planning this time, as we were basically following the same simple route as before. Super easy, peasy, lemon squeezy. Touchdown in Bangkok, hop on a plane, sleep, hop on a boat, hop on a songathew (included in boat ticket) and we’re done. For the first time in our travels around Thailand we can unpack and completely relax.

Fittingly, the place we stay is dubbed Relax House. A small family run gig with Gop (the wife) mostly behind the scenes in the kitchen, Art (the husband) in front of house – amusing guests and taking reservations and little Bi (5ish) running amok and keeping her parents on their toes.  Art & Gop had their start at the Nine Shop, mid island, what you might refer to as a downtown, if there was such a thing on an island like Koh Kood. The sandwich board outside offers ice cream and wine (be still my beating heart) but inside they carry a little bit of everything. Nine Shop is still there, and still in the family, now run by someone’s brother. When Art and GOP had it, they ran it along with a little restaurant attached (that was always hopping – into the wee hours) as well as running a catering business preparing package lunches for some of the big hotels on island. It was a lot. Good help is hard to find, everywhere apparently. Gop was busting her behind, sleeping 4-5 hours a night on the restaurant floor after it had cleared out, then up with the sun to start all over. When little Bi came along the craziness continued for the first few years, then they bought property on the south end of the island and started from scratch. But it worked.

Relax House offers 2 (3 kind of) self contained bungalows. The newest addition directly behind the restaurant and beside the river, completed late in 2016. The other two are beside the restaurant with direct road access. They all have lovely hot water, quite decent water pressure, fantastic AC, comfortable beds, mini fridge and private decks. Included with the rental is breakfast and your scooter rental. Also included, if you’re into it, is reservations for dinner at the restaurant.  Which you should be into, since it’s bloody delicious.

The small eatery has 5 tables and offers one seating per night. Except when Art musses something up. But in general, it’s around a dozen people max. It’s just Gop in the kitchen. No dishwasher. No server. Just Gop. And man is she good. Pad Si Eiwe, Rab Moo, Tom Kha Ga, Tom Yum. Of course she executes green and red curries like she’s been cooking since she was in the womb. But seriously. There is nowhere that comes close. Green papaya salad, not on the menu, but she blessed my palate a few nights. Wide rice noodles for Eiwe that I’ve yet to see anywhere else. Pad Thai. Let’s be clear, I’m usually not a fan. But I’ve never had anything by Gop that wasn’t ahhmazing. Fresh tamarind, wrapped delicately in a blanket of an egg, toasted peanuts, fresh veg. We had it more than twice. You’ll want it all, you’ll need at least a week. The deep fried banana with coconut, lightly drizzled with sweetened condensed milk accompanied with a couple scoops of coconut ice cream. So good. I’m going back.