Day #2 Monday May 29th

Narok, Rift Valley

Crack of dawn. That’s what my phone alarm stays set on. We’re up before the sun, eggs tea and toast. My preconceptions of a game drive were long hours of driving around in circles with a slight chance of spotting an animal in the distance. But I was so wrong. Our guide, Chris, on his phone, (speaking in Swahili so who knows what’s going on), but I’m pretty sure he’s getting the deets on where the cats are hiding.

First up is Mama cheetah and her 3 babes. They’re quite a ways off in the distance, but we turn off onto a small road to get a closer view. I’ve got 20/20 vision (post surgery) and I thought I could see pretty well, but if they’re not moving they blend in like nothing. They roll around together on the dry grass, play fighting like typical large kittens. We didn’t want to overstay our welcome so we were off after 10 minutes or so, habituation is a no no. Next up was another big cat, a couple big male lions having a morning nap in front of a grove of trees and brush. One couldn’t be bothered to wake up at all, and the slightly more alert one laid down a few times during our viewing period. They weren’t interested. Magnificent creatures. A couple minutes more down the road were the lionesses. One for starters, stalking prey, three water buffalo. But at the beginning she was alone, so no threat. A second one arrived shortly thereafter, but for a takedown they need at least a pack of three. So still no threat, the buffalo cared little. The two lady lions looked like it was their nap hour anyways. The exposed rock was a nice safe lookout, and was probably warming up from the sun.


Before coming to a family of elephants we drive past a handful of cohabitating herbivores; wildebeest, waterbuck, eland, warthogs, topi, thomsons gazelles, impalas and zebras. All intermingling and getting along. I was quite amused. Like a big strange petting zoo. They’ve all got massive amounts of space to roam, but choose to stay together, safety in numbers I guess.

The elephants were majestic as always. Slowly sauntering away from the bus, but not terribly concerned. They looked healthy, lots of babies around, lots to eat. I’ve seen my fair share of sad elephants, so it was a nice change.

There were piles of giraffes. Goofy looking things. Eyeing us up on the bus, almost at eye level. Batting their long flowing eyelashes at us. Giving us the stare down. Definitely the most curious animals we came across. A few were playing a game of “heady butty”. Which according to Chris, may be fought to the death. I can’t even. How long would it take to kill a giraffe by smacking your head into its rump. I would think one would get a headache and stop. Or get a sore bum and walk away. Just let it go giraffes. It’s not actually called “heady butty”, it’s called “necking”. Worse? Necking can also consist of leaning their necks on each other. That’ll show them who’s the boss. After a good bout of necking, it’s common for a couple male giraffes to court each other and… wait for it… mount each other. Apparently it’s common. Very common. How are you not extinct? Strange strange animals. Priorities.

After giraffe city we were off to the lunch spot. Or so we thought. Half way there (it wasn’t far anyways) we come across another driver who, in Swahili, tells Chris something, and in half a second the truck is frantically doing a ten point turn. We bounce along, with a slight idea that it’s the last big cat to check off. Prior, when we were viewing giraffes, the sister noticed quite a few smaller game trucks stopping by one particular acacia tree, across a small valley from us. And wouldn’t you know, that’s where a big fat leopard was having an after lunch, meat sweat induced, nap. With leftovers hanging on the branch above them. Living the life, in a protected habitat. Barely lifting an eyelid at the dozen (or who knows how many ) craning to see the hardest to spot predator in the land.

Quick lunch and we were on our way (a ways away) to see a Maasai Tribe. We were greeted by a single Maasai fellow on a bumpy dirt road and instructed to follow him back to the small village. He was a likeable dude, in his traditional garb of a red blanket and jingling jewelry. He pointed out a few interesting plants along the way; one for dying skin red, one for use as toilet paper. Wouldn’t want to mix those up. The small group of us get to the homestead and are sat down to enjoy the customary song and dance. A group of a dozen or so gather and begin humming and chanting, rhythmically circling, young warriors leading the pack. The circle forms a line and they start having a jump off. A few little jumps, then warm up is over. From flat footed on the hard dirt they can clear a good 4 feet I’d say. The highest jumper gets the girls, so I guess that’s pretty good motivation.

It all comes back to Biggie.
Settle down and start a family. Acquire cattle.