March 11th 2020

It’s hard to look back now and see past the impending chaos that was the pandemic. On the day of our departure, actually while en route to our DFW stopover, Trudeau announced “Canadians should postpone or cancel any plans for non-essential travel abroad”. 

Just after we touched down in Texas, the states had suspended travel to/from Europe, there was a youth soccer team in limbo near us, departing a shared flight, canceling their overseas leg, and figuring out how they’d be getting home. 

Needless to say, we decided we would continue on – hence the blog I’m writing – albeit, its 2 years later. I don’t regret it. We needed a break, home life was moderately stressful, and we both needed some time together and fun little chill adventure. The flights were quick, Vancouver to Dallas, Dallas to San Jose. Traveling through the states is a breeze versus China, it was a nice change from what some of our previous stops had been like. We arrived after dark, into an old humid/musty airport. The taxi to the hotel drove unimaginably fast, along narrow bumpy streets – possibly cobblestone, possibly potholes, flipping u turns, hurtling along one ways, possibly in the wrong direction.

We were staying in the old town, per my usual preference. So we awoke in a small boutique hotel, with bougainvillea lined streets and an appealing continental breakfast spread. Thor had arranged for our car rental to be delivered to the hotel the morning after our arrival, so as we were finishing up a man found us – as the only whites, and we loaded up the rental and all drove back to the office to sort out the paperwork. Thor had acquired some sort of budget older model SUV, a Suzuki, since we had heard of the road conditions where we’d be heading, and the plentiful river crossings – which did not disappoint. So we were on the road, headed south towards Puerto Jiminez and Corcovado National Park Rainforest Preserve. 

It was a scenic 6 hour drive, the highways were well maintained, no complaints. Also I wasn’t driving, so I was free to enjoy the view. As we neared the coast, and it was later in the afternoon, the lowering sun in the thick rainforest gave me Oahu vibes, the air was fresh, salty. 

We spent 5 nights in Osa, exploring, on the 13th we went north along the peninsula into the reserve. Hours and hours of driving, all dirt roads, sometimes washboard, sometimes through shallow river beds. We hiked along the black sand beach, and through the trails near the ocean, with the protection of the canopy. We saw scarlet macaws in the treetops and spider monkeys napping in the heat. At one point we came across a few hitch-hiking tourists, fellow young westerners, heading the same direction so we stopped to let them in. There were a few accommodations along the way, sleepy hammock cafes, but the folks that we picked up were staying/volunteering at a turtle hatching beach and were either protecting or collecting data. When we dropped them off, up a driveway, they suggested we head down and check it out, just a few minutes more through the bush. The surf was very strong, and as a weak swimmer, I felt bad for the baby turtles, no wonder so many don’t make it, if they even make it to the water. 

Everything felt safe and relatively welcoming. The small grocery stores had set up hand hygiene stations on tables outside, but masks were still unheard of. Along one section of the road in town the police were checking identification, (honestly who knows why, we don’t speak Spanish and they hardly spoke English) and we generally had our passports on us… except one day, but the heavily armed cops didn’t seem too concerned, maybe the remembered us? They were slightly annoyed, we didn’t forget again. 

Tourists were far and few, but we were pretty far off the beaten path, so I’m not sure if that was per usual. We explored some local beaches, the surf was strong and the water murky, and the sun incredibly hot. In the evening we would drive down the park roads and watch lightning bugs float around the coconut palm plantations. 

March 14th “feds urge Canadians to return home while flights available”

March 15th We hiked in a section of the park closer to our accommodations, closer to town, deeper into the rainforest. Up the side of a mountain basically. On this self guided expedition we found a family of howler monkeys that were much more entertaining than the sleepy spider monks. Within the park there were also cacao trees, with varying ripe cocoa pods, and evidence that the wild pigs enjoy cacao as well. Our energy levels were quite depleted in the heat, but it was a nice change from sitting in a vehicle.

March 16th Drake Bay

Went on a day trip adventure to Drake Bay. Had kind of heard the road was insanely bad – which it wasn’t, so we had somewhat planned just to see how far we could get on the back roads. Spoiler, it wasn’t bad, one decent river crossing – shallow but wide – car rental guy said to always get out and poke around before crossing, nbd really. You could usually see where other vehicles would cross, and Drake Bay had a bus service as well. Imagine, a bus that’ll drive through a river. Drake Bay was pretty sleepy, a little surf village, a jumping point for eco resorts and diving companies. Was cute, saw dive boats getting tossed heavy in the surf as they were trying to come into the beach. Totally not my cup of tea. But amusing nonetheless.

So we were in Puerto Jiminez for 5 nights, from March 12 to March 17. At a whopping $30 a night. All in it came to $200, which, which was fitting for what it was… The place didn’t really have walls. The bedroom and bathroom did though. Hot running water, a kitchen, no ac. Very basic, but ample. So, the walls were basically chain link fence with a tarp over them. Shit you not. The house was a stones throw from the owners moms house, and driveway, and behind some sort of mechanic shop. As well as another Airbnb rental, which was a two storey canvas tent type thing. All in all it was fine, we self catered breakfast, had a few underwhelming sodas for meals. Would I go back? Probably not. But it was enjoyable.

March 17th To Atenas 

So Atenas. I’d go back. To the same place. If it’s still an Airbnb – just checked in 2022 and it is – I’m a sucker for creature comforts some days. We stayed in a lovely humble yet western gated community with other snow birds, that were helpful and kind, but more on that later – first a brief road trip summary. 

We left relatively early, dropped the key with someones granny. Our lovely car rental fellow (turn tour operator) suggested we take an alternate route back to the main highway so we could see more of the countryside. After traversing the spines of dusty hills we descended to a river valley where a small “ferry” more akin to a flat deck barge would carry you across, it was entertaining, and gave a closer look into everyday life for the locals. It would only fit two cars, and you had to back off once on the other side. We weren’t in a huge rush as we didn’t have a full day of driving before us, so we stopped in some little towns, walked on beaches and stretched our legs. Still arriving mid afternoon.

The check in process for the AirBnB in Atenas was a bit of a shit storm, like… no show. So we waited, and waited. A neighbour Canadian noticed us while out walking his dogs, and told me to come by if I needed, which I eventually did, to use their wifi. Obviously greatly appreciated. Minor hiccup. Some friend of a friend of the owner came and let us in, the gate wasn’t even locked, but he did give us the key. The house was lovely, still super cheap, $65/night, with an amazing 40ft pool. Private, well equipped, nice area, laundry, clean. No air con but totally not necessary due to cooler nights in the mountains and a steady breeze.

The town of Atenas was also lovely, very old, plenty of character. Fruit stands, fresh tortilla shops, and little grocery store giving American vibes. Very snow bird friendly, I could see the appeal for boomers. We chilled for 3 nights before hitting the road again. Regretfully not staying longer. But my basic desires for the ocean reigns supreme some days.

March 20th To Samara

It was a relatively short drive to Samara/ Nicoya, about 200km, about 3 hours. We checked into our accommodation and went for a wander. The town was pretty quiet, pandemic panic had set in. Some beaches were already taped off – closed. We spent the 21st on the beach, and the 22nd on hold with our airline. Some other travellers that were staying in another bungalow were from Belgium and were basically stranded as no flights were going overseas.

I was getting near constant harassment from family to come home. Throughout the trip we were monitoring the situation, numerous times a day, we both had data roaming packages and were by no means out of touch with reality. We canceled the last week, dropped off the vehicle without a refund and paid through the nose to rebook flights. We stayed overnight in Dallas on the 22nd, left early on the 23rd, caught a connecting flight out of Vancouver – on a small airline to our little town, that shut down completely the next day.

By the 28th I was making sourdough like the rest of humanity.

We were in quasi lockdown, as we had been out of the country – aka possibly infected with the plague. I had family drop groceries. We went cutting firewood and starting seeds indoors. I personally enjoy isolation, and it’s not really isolation with Thor around. The rest of the year of school was canceled so Thors youngest stayed in the states with his mother (where he was during our trip/spring break). And I got an extra week off work to “quarantine”.