Where it Starts

Green papaya salad assembled before your eyes, churros dipped and double dipped into thick rich melted chocolate, greasy suadero street tacos, steaming hot bowls of pho consumed on child sized plastic chairs in an alley. I was, like many from my generation, inspired by television, and specifically by Anthony Bourdain. And I feel like bearing witness to his travels changed my views and shaped my life extraordinarily. Eventually, his travels felt within reach – some of them. I could see these places with my very own eyes, and I was lucky enough to have people in my life with the same adventurous desires. I either travel with sister or the boyfriend. Sister and I have traversed Spain, Panama, Kenya, Uganda, Mexico and Rarotonga. We generally have a more “experience” &/ “relax vacation” based itinerary, while, travel with my lovely beau Thor, is definitely food centered, unless I hold him hostage in, say, Iceland or Honolulu. You’re generally not traveling to Iceland for the gastronomic offerings, although we didn’t come home empty handed. I should break it down per trip. More on that later.

Like I may have mentioned in other posts, I can divide my yearning for travel into two categories, for food and for experiences. With experiences I can then divide further into a classic relaxing “laying on a beach vacation”, or an adventurous trip. I remember the first time I thought about travel. I was probably around 5, it was the mid 90’s, my sister and I were playing with some animal encyclopedias, as you do pre internet, and learning about the most random species. The very first entry was for the aye aye, like all lemurs, endemic to Madagascar, and the most bizarre animal I’ve laid eyes on, probably ever, and it’s totally still on my list to see IRL; in real life. On our globe we could locate Madagascar and the distance between here and there was unimaginable.

My first trips were to Mexico, as you do. We traveled as a family with divorced parents on all inclusive trips, twice to Mexico and twice to Panama. Rarely leaving compounds, for the odd shopping trip or guided tour. All enjoyable, don’t get me wrong, but a very sheltered experience. And the buffet situations definitely left something to be desired, in my opinion. Nothing wrong with the food, but not a tortilla or bean in sight. One of my most recent trip was also to Mexico, as per publication date, albeit Mexico City this time around, and not focused on rest or relaxation in the slightest. It was a whirlwind of epic curated excursions and mouth watering tacos suggested to me by the great powers of Netflix – go watch Taco Chronicles if you haven’t please, if you know you know.

Iceland wasn’t a total food bust. We had a shawarma revelation, and ever since we’ve been addicted & making our own monthly, warm soft pita, thick tangy homemade tzatziki, well seasoned chicken and fresh crunchy veg. Who would’ve thought? I also loaded up on some really lovely Icelandic flake sea salt, three boxes lasted me years and I’ve just run out a few months ago. So Iceland was an adventure stop, namely since it was a spur of the moment trip – hello $500 return & direct flights with minimal research. Sustenance was historically salted fish and mutton, nowadays, there’s hilarious gas station hotdogs. We weren’t there for local grub, there for an adventure, soaking in the blue lagoon & having a little break from life. No regrets.

Rarotonga wasn’t really a “foodie” destination either – have you seen the beaches?! – but we had a couple fun little snack snacks and self catered well. We hit up the Waffle Shack at the Saturday market and had an epic fry bread esque “bounty” waffle, with homemade coconut ice cream, chocolate sauce and topped with fresh shredded coconut, watching as it snowed fluffy coconut pillows on the chocolate rivers. The way memories are locked in by food is beyond words. I can still taste it. At one of the rentals there was a massive starfruit tree in the yard that we were welcome to, and let me tell you, delicious. The sad excuse for a starfruit we get here in Canada is blasphemous in comparison. They’re exploding with flavour when properly ripe, crispy, juicy, floral, and they ripen to a beautiful rich golden yellow. I also scored big time with vanilla beans on Raro, as you’ll be aware of if you’ve read that post. The weekly afternoon market had some great food stalls, from soursop smoothies to chicken kebabs with a sauce I still can’t replicate, and we can’t forget about that epic burger. As big as me head, maybe bigger! Overlooking the harbour, Palace Burger, and fit for a king if I do say so. A quaint joint, very popular with the locals, generous portions, open 7 days a week – which isn’t common for little islands, and bloody delicious! 10/10 recommend. If I make it back that’ll be a first day stop.

Hawaii wasn’t that great food wise for me, more so, underwhelming and overpriced. The dole whips at the plantation were nice, I’d rather eat sand than a shaved ice, and we made some very tasty homemade mahi-mahi tacos. The malasadas were very good, I’ll never pass on a good donut. I was hoping for more out of Hawaii, it is America after all, but over tourism has killed the vibe for me. Maybe I didn’t do my homework well enough, if you want to shout out anywhere feel free.

Don’t get me wrong, the states have supplied me with some epic grub memories. Jade Garden for dim sum in Seattle – those crispy saucy walnut prawns! dumplings! – mint, Lotus of Siam in Vegas – mind blowing Vietnamese, too many amazing Mexican places to remember. And of course, classic Americana that is In & Out and Krispy Kreme. I have yet to explore more southern states, the land of barbecue in all its glory, it’s on the short list.

Thailand is obviously an eating destination, and nowadays, we have it all when we go, the most beautiful beaches and the best food. I’m bad at keeping secrets. We’re pretty dang lucky. Koh Kood doesn’t leave a thing to be desired, we’re very well taken care of and are beyond excited to return in the very near future. Absolute top notch meals, locked in at the best restaurant. Maybe I’ll get Gop to teach me more of her tricks, she wasn’t shy in the past. We’ve stayed there long enough to know what we love, but also explore the menu items we wouldn’t necessarily order, since they’re unknowns. Like rab moo, which as a description said something along the lines of “meat salad” which is alarming. And I’m sure even as I describe it will fall flat in comparison to the real deal. Gop did teach us, and we’ve made it at home, but hers is obviously so much better. Pork, fish sauce, lime, red onion, mint cilantro, chilli, green onion, thickened juices with very finely ground toasted sticky rice – that she pounds with a big old mortar and pestle. All cooked in a medium sized pot, easy as pie. Doesn’t sound like much, I know, but you’ll just have to believe me.

Our time in Spain was so long ago now I hardly remember much past the classic churros with thick hot chocolate, seafood filled paella in Barcelona and an authentic set meal with olive oil tastings, and an array of mouth watering tapas in Grenada. Guess that means I’ll have to go back…

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