They’re rosy. They’re chill. They’re polite. They’re the most polite monkeys I’ve ever seen and don’t strike fear in me like all the other monkeys I’ve ever encountered.

The families of Japanese macaques that inhabit the Valley of Yokoyu River in the northern section of Nagano prefecture are the only onsen going monkeys in the known world. Since the establishment of Jigokudani Yaen-koen in 1964 it has been a popular place for watching the unique habits of the bathing monkeys for researchers and photographers alike. Jigokudani, translates to “Hell Valley” due to the steep cliffs, steaming springs and severe weather, buried in snow and ice during the winter months.

Alas, this perceived hell is a living paradise on earth for these sweet little monkeys to live in. Soaking away all their monkey cares, snacking on the seeds deposited for them in the man made pools, completely ignoring the gawking crowds. Unbothered.

Our day began on the floor, back at the onsen. Not the most comfortable sleeping situation, but a great experience for a short time. I snuck in a morning soak. Had a local milk ice coffee, warmed up and headed out. Our host kindly drove us over to the train station and we had time for a hot coffee at the diner at the station. We took the slower old train back up to Nagano Station then located the queue for the bus and arrived at the park around noon. It’s quite icy, packed ice on the trail with steep snowy cliffs. The walk is relatively level and took us about half an hour each way. Easy, but slippery. The monkeys were darling, and I could’ve sat watching them for ages, highly recommend, and I’d make a point of returning.