A symbol of eternal love, we’re here to see the mighty Taj Mahal, first wonder of the world, no pressure.

We arrived via Uber from Delhi, as you do, 3.5h and under $40 Canadian dollars later. Taking it easy here and not figuring out trains. The drive was a mix of freeway and packed village intersections, plus the urban sprawls. We’re staying at an old (the oldest in Agra) heritage hotel, The Grand Imperial, very very colonial. Circa early 1900’s. Once housing Lord Mountbatten, the royal tasked with handling the partition of India & Pakistan, and later handing over India to develop Indian independence. And, in royal fashion, he was related to both Prince Philip and Queen Elizabeth. He was the great-grandson of Queen Victoria, which made him second cousin to Elizabeth, as well as Prince Philip’s uncle. Philip’s mother, Princess Alice of Battenberg, was Louis’s sister. Just to make your head spin.

Post British rule, the building was home to the first president of India, Rajendra Prasad & Jawaharlal Nehru, first Prime Minister of India, and would routinely host dignitaries and famous guests, Mohammed Ali & Mala, to name a few. Outfitted in antique furniture and decor, the hotel has held onto its history well over the years and certainly feels like stepping back in time.

Not to sound too much like a travel brochure, but they offer complimentary experiences, such as a nightly marionette show – fever dream, henna, folk dancing and live music during dinner – a sitar & drum combination. The dinner entertainment was quite enjoyable, although the meal was unfortunately mild. Pleasantly convenient though, as venturing out can at times be quite tedious (personally), especially after a long day on the road. So. Delivered safely to Agra, bellies full of biriyani & tikka masala chicken, tickets to the Taj booked, book them separately for less headache, we drift off to sleep to a chorus of varied honking. The busses and freight trucks here produce a noise reminiscent of an elephant trumpet. Good times. Well rested we are not.

Tickets are booked for “forenoon”, which was a new one for me, so we didn’t have a set arrival time, other than early, per my request. We awake naturally around 6, ready to roll out by 630 and painfully reach the official east entrance at 7. Our uber tuktuk either dropped us too early, or we missed the memo on proper transportation protocol, because we had to hoof it the final 500m to the actual ticket gate. And, although tickets were pre-purchased, there was a hefty lineup for entry as well as gender segregated security. Online tickets don’t need to be printed, they can read the QR code off a phone, it’s 2024. Second hot tip, don’t bother bringing a bag, as there’s a fast track line for ladies without personal possessions. Also, hope you don’t mind monkeys, as the separated off area for women to potentially uncover is also a monkey playground with them literally swinging from the curtains. Kid you not. Moral = pack extra light.

Out into the courtyard, safely reunited with my other half, still fighting off eager guides, we are carried in a sea of other Taj goers to the first viewpoint. Breathtaking as it is, it’s also extremely crowded, already. I’ve heard a million times to go early, catch sunrise, “it’s less busy early”. Sir. I would call that a lie. It’s packed. I understand they’ve started “limiting” visitors to 40,000/day, supposedly 20k morning & afternoon. Maybe Saturday is busier than a weekday, really can’t say. Beyond the crowds, it’s still a sight to behold. And, truthfully, arriving early allows you to witness the white marble come to life, from a cool grey to warm yellow and crisp white as the sun fully comes around and illuminates the domed marble mausoleum. It truly is a sight to behold, and is more than a lens or written word could ever capture.

We meaner around, exploring less busy corners, but ultimately packing it in around 9, back to the hotel, in time to dip into the breakfast buffet, pleased, still jalebi intact. I spend the rest of the day lounging by the pool reading, Shabiya from the hotel finds me in the afternoon to do some henna, which was lovely of her. She was very sweet, all the staff were. Thor does some exploring on foot and reports back wide eyed. We uber out to dinner, mutton biriyani & tandoori chicken. Our driver was still around when we finished up, so that was an easy evening, wrapped up another one! Off on a new adventure tomorrow!