I’ve officially made the journey to sisters new home island in the north, and I have had a beautiful full week exploring and taking in the natural beauty that we are so lucky to have at our back door.

The trip took half a day, more or less. My flight was scheduled to leave Powell River until 9 so I could sleep in, leaving home around 730, lots of time to have a tea and sit back with my precious Sunny – whom my darling mother would lovingly caretake in my absence.

I arrived as planned at my little YPW airport at 815 for the 9 departure, only for the flight to be pushed until 10, arriving at south terminal at 1040, missing the 1045 shuttle to YVR, catching a cab, bag drop, getting lunch & through security by 1145. Not bad. I’d yet to travel domestic in YVR and the amenities were disappointingly lacking, and swamped. We boarded on time for the Air Canada YVR to Sandspit flight, 1230 departure & touching down by 230. The Sandspit airport was quite lovely, spacious & clean. Bags took a bit to come out but that’s alright, I generally never check bags but sister requested I make her tiramisu and claimed the island was dry of mascarpone – which was untrue, but the lady fingers I also brought were superior to the ones I saw available. For public knowledge, mascarpone is available at the Super Valu in Sandspit, as well as the Co Op in Skidegate, at regular prices.

Our first stop en route to the ferry that would take us north to Daajin Giids – formerly Charlotte City, was the classic Super Valu, very retro, very unchanged, love it. Carries what you really need, even sisters precious “president’s choice” brand ice cream. We loaded up, tried to book it to the 330 ferry and missed it by a dozen vehicles, which was fine, it’s only an hour wait and it was nice to sit and decompress from the morning and discuss plans for the week.

Plans were precise but not day specific, to adjust according to the weather, except the trip highlight – the Gwaii Haanas daytrip. But that’s not until Friday so let’s not get ahead of ourselves.

The ferry is a short 20 minute jaunt, very small. Arrives between Daajing Giids & Skidegate and it’s just a short drive to sister’s house. We got home & unpacked, perused the garden, fed the chickens salmon berries, ordered Chinese takeaway before going out for a little cruise of the town before collecting dinner. Very cute, very humble. No longer a fishing community but the bones of a boomtown are still there. Plenty of old homes, everything situated a stones throw from the waterfront. A little grocery store – City Centre – very retro again, sushi, hospital, b&b’s. post office, corner store, visitors centre, Isabel Creek – a sweet little health food & more store, a food truck and not too much more. Silly bird. Also Ace Hardware, (now Rona) sister’s boyfriend’s establishment, for all your home improvement needs!

The beautiful weather I arrived to was changing and it stormed overnight and into Tuesday. We took advantage of the pause and spent the day at the museum in Skidegate, just 10 minutes up the road. Marks brother actually had a show on at the museum as well so we were able to have a chance to view his works as well, very geometric and vibrant, he must have an incredibly steady hand for the freehand line work he excels at. The majority of the museum focuses on traditional cultural pieces as well as items that have been repatriated to the lands. As well as educating folks on local history. There’s a massive amount of artifacts on display as well as in drawers, which are unlocked and available for viewing.

Tuesday, post museum, we had some lovely homemade battered halibut & chips for dinner before popping down to the fam’s favourite close by beach.

Wednesday, sister had convinced her lovely beau Mark to take the afternoon off and zip out to Rose Spit, the northernmost point, north of Masset, so about an hour and a half drive from the split. Mark had a work delivery to drop in Masset anyways so we met up for lunch at the best local food truck, Charters. Burgers on pretzel buns & Thai noodle salad loaded with local spot prawns, couple slushies and we were good to go. With the proper vehicle you can drive along the beach to the spit, otherwise you’re in for quite the hike. And don’t even think about taking rentals out on the sand, the locals all get a kickback for narking, a crisp $200. It’s in the fine-print.

In Budgets defence, it’s soft sand in areas, tides, salty, a disaster waiting to happen for unsuspecting tourists. Even the locals find themselves in trouble from time to time. Plus the necessary undercarriage rinse post beach drive, and no, there’s no car wash on island.

The weather managed to hold on until we were packing up anyway, with a pretty solid downpour bidding us adieu.

Thursday was another beautiful stormy day, spent perusing shops, hunting deals at fields, finishing my book – land of milk & honey (highly recommend), sussing out meal plans and making an epic moussaka & tiramisu combo. Eggplants sourced at City Centre, god willing. Asiago via Isabel Creek. Tomatoes, sauce, meat from Co-Op. Good team effort.

Friday was our big expedition to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area, and Haida Heritage Site, usually referred to simply as Gwaii Haanas. Our departure time & itinerary had shifted slightly due to adverse weather situations on the previous trip, so we’d be rallying at the ferry, driving down to Moresby Camp and catching the boat from there. You know what that means. It was so rough the Thursday tour jumped ship early and drove the last leg home instead of being tossed around. You can’t argue that. So we met up at 7 for the 730 ferry, hurtled down some logging roads and met our boat by 9. It was a further hour by water to reach Gwaii Haanas, past the invisible line into the protected southernmost portion of Haida Gwaii.

This area was a perfect introductory point and so symbolic to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve because it was here, in 1985, that the Haida people took a stand against clear cut logging practices in South Moresby. This stand off is what resulted in the creation of Gwaii Haanas, and the erection of the Legacy Pole is a stark reminder of the history of the area. We were warmly welcomed by the local caretakers that have had a constant presence on the land, spending blocks on their traditional territory. The cabin has had some upgrades recently but is still very rustic and off grid. We started our visit with a hike to a massive Sitka before crossing a stream on a tin boat hooked up to a pulley system.

The caretakers gave us a thorough history of the area, described the memorial pole structure, meaning and lore. One of our local guides Xiila, a lovely young woman who is midway through her anthropology degree at UBC, has very close ties to the pole as her brothers and other close family were the carvers and designers of the pole that stands in Windy Bay. Post discussion we made our way back to where the boat deposited us, on shore where there was an ample drop, unfortunately, the tide had since gone out so the creek was too shallow for the tinny taxi, and most folks didn’t wear gumboots – not us though. The creek bed was quite treacherous, and I felt for folks doing it barefoot, very cold and very slick rocks.

Once back onboard we dug into a fresh local lunch, salmon & hali, fresh salads and roasted potatoes, we puttered out and made our way to G̱andll K’in Gwaay yaay, Hotsprings Island. The water was magnificently calm, easy for spotting humpbacks. We arrived within 20 minutes, another scramble across the beach and a short hike through the woods to our next destination. Our guides claim the Haida never actually bathed in the springs as they were wary and suspicious of the hot water. With the arrival of settlers, the springs were built up slightly and multiple pools were formed for optimal enjoyment.

We had ample time to soak in the springs, which relatively recently returned after a 7.7 magnitude earthquake stop their flow in 2012. Some pools were quite warm, even for me – who generally enjoys a good scalding. Eventually we decided on the lone spring prior to changing area, as it was unoccupied and a pleasant temperature. The area also has a unique intertidal area to explore if group soaking isn’t up your alley.

Gwaii Haanas, loosely translates to “beautiful islands” and certainly didn’t disappoint. We were incredibly lucky with the weather, wind & tides and couldn’tve asked for a more perfect day.

I was, undoubtedly, expecting a far more isolated, remote, “blast from the past” -esque experience here in Haida Gwaii, as a whole. Surprised and impressed by the recent influx in infrastructural development, cultural establishments & ongoing upgrades seen throughout the north island, be it repairing highway washouts or the new elders housing development.

The ride back to DG was smooth enough for us boat comfortable type, a bit of a swell, but nothing bad. Mark collected us from the dock in town and we relaxed with leftovers and bubble baths.

Saturday was a mostly sedentary adventure day. We drove out to the west side of the island and to Bonanza Beach, a vast sweeping bay open to the open waters of the pacific. A quick jaunt of a hike out, and mostly deserted. We stopped along the way for brief stretches at viewpoints and a lovely little waterfall on the way back, the weather cooperated beautifully and it was lovely to get the lay of the land. Sunday was a full no getting dressed rest day. Finished my book, Land of Milk & Honey – high recommends, lots of tea & watching the weather pass. By the evening the rains had passed and we went for a little beach walk with the pooches.

Our final hurrah of my visit was a hike out to the Pesuta shipwreck on East Beach at Naikoon Provincial Park in Tlell, a little under a couple hours each way, pretty flat ground and follows the river out to the ocean after a little stint in the woods. The wreck was a log carrier that ran aground in December 1928 but local residents were able to salvage the load and put it to use. You’re able to walk inside the now sideways remains, which is mostly broken apart, maybe a few more decades and it’ll wash away for good. We were back to the truck by 5 and just across the river is the (imo) best restaurant on island, Haida House, and we headed over for my final dinner of the visit. A curated small menu of very well executed plates. We had a lovely menagerie of apples, pork belly, beet salad, duck & short rib mains & haupia for a perfect sweet finish. Its was perfect perfect. Loved so much and wonderful company.

Tuesday was another chill day, pre travel, laundry, organize the things. Wednesday was the
‘big” travel day, flying out of Masset at noon – so it was a hour drive north. Pacific Coastal is a dream of simple travel, no security, just show up – flash id – get your boarding pass and waltz right on the plane when they’re ready for you. The flight was smooth, already at the south terminal so I could just relax until my 430 departure and home by 530.

An amazing trip & big thanks to my lovely baby sister and her new boo! Such great hosts and I miss them both every day. 💛💛

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