Tips, toast, fries & kisses.

Hello dear family & strangers! Here we are again – We’re in Paris baby! Euro adventures have commenced.

I’d booked a tour in August, 6 days in Egypt mid February. Half price, because we love a deal and On the Go hasn’t let us down yet… With a notion that we’ll spend some time in Europe galavanting around but I didn’t think it’d quite be to this extent, honest.

We’re starting in Paris, flying to Poland, trains south, twisting through Czechia, Slovakia, Austria, Hungary, Slovenia. Arriving in Greece almost three weeks later and hopping south to Cairo. Breathe. A couple nights before sister arrives, Egypt tour, a few down days to relax, back to Cairo, Malta & back to Paris for a night to load up on French butter before returning home.

It’s a taste test trip. See what we fancy. 

The loose plan was concocted mid November, flights mostly booked – Vancouver to Paris for $600 return (West Jet), Paris to Poland ($70) (Ryan Air), Ljubljana to Athens ($105) (Air Serbia), Athens to Cairo ($100) (Aegean), Luxor to Cairo ($144) (Egypt Air), Cairo to Malta ($90) (Aegean), Malta to Paris ($104) (Ryan Air).

Enough about boring logistics; let’s talk Paris. A mere three full days to see and eat a pinch of what Paris has to offer. Of course, one could spend months in France alone, and maybe one day I’ll petsit someone’s golden on a beach somewhere, maybe near Saint-Malo. For now, quick Paris. Personally, before all the things to do I thought of all the things I’ll eat. Tip top: croissants, pan au chocolat, crème brûlée, cheese. 

Shall we day by day it? 

Saturday we arrive, mid day, failed bus attempt (required an app – the audacity), ubered to the hotel. Arrived promptly at 3, at check in, collapsed onto the bed and succumbed to a jetlaggy nap. I was up around 7, made a reservation for Duvin for 830 – a few hundred metres down the street. We’re staying on Pigalle, in the 9th arrondissement or district, the complex snail shell layout that you’ll have to google and read up on yourself if you want a full grasp, because I don’t get it. It’s not the same as neighbourhoods. 

The Eiffel Tower is in the 7th, but south of the Seine. Arc de Triomphe is in the 8th, Montmartre bordering north of the 9th is 18th. Pigalle (9th) was a total shot in the dark but I ended up loving it. It felt very chill, authentic & local. Like regular working class Parisians live and work there. The restaurant scene was great. On the north end it felt a bit seedy/red lighty – why so many massage parlours? Cabaret, the iconic Moulin Rouge, bars, literal red lights. I never felt unsafe though, even if I was alone I would’ve felt fine. I’d stay in the area again, but probably not the same hotel. Eden Opera, comically tiny postage stamp elevator, a 2 person squeeze.  Small (to be expected) room. No mini fridge – for the cheese! Window into nowhere – hello weather? – atrocious hair dryer and equally atrocious shower head. Key cards spontaneously stopped working on day 3. But. Friendly front desk 24/7 & a good location though, no road noise in the back. And under $200 a night. Which is good – for Paris. 

Duvin.

Amazing.

Opened just last summer.

Every bite was magic. 

From their site: 

“The concept.

Dear Madam, Dear Sir, Duvin is a celebration of simplicity, pleasure and French gastronomy Inspired by the culinary masters Escoffier, Vatel and Carême, our chef and his team offer you a scoundrel, authentic and generous cuisine, accompanied by carefully selected wines. We believe in authenticity and French terroir, collaborating with committed suppliers and producers to guarantee ingredients of the highest quality.

In a friendly atmosphere reminiscent of a Haussmannian apartment, enjoy our bar for a lunch on the go or to enjoy a drink in peace. The restaurant welcomes you for long sharing meals, while our private lounge offers moments in complete privacy. We look forward to welcoming you to our Bistrot, where wine, conviviality and beautiful plate meet. 

Respectfully The Duvin Team.”

From the warm welcome, our server patiently verbally translating the hand written menu and the owner making a wine suggestion, it was so perfect. Cozy charming atmosphere. I can’t remember the translated details exactly, but we had foie gras (IGP*), French onion soup, a chicken main and Thor had lamb.

Tart & bright little pink coins of finely minced quince, membrillo was that you? Contrasting the silky rich foie gras. The soup was thick, rich and hearty, seasoned perfectly, toasted slivers of bread on the side, raw garlic under melted Gruyère. 

Google translate refers to the chicken dish as “chicken supreme”, a deboned breast and attached wing, roasted, super juicy, with ample beet root mousse and a roasted mushroom bathed in an herby garlic sauce, possibly just butter. No regrets. Chicken isn’t usually my choice pick, too safe – but I was pretty brain dead and the mousse sounded appealing. Thors rack of lamb must’ve been equally delicious because he finished it before sharing. 

Only regret is not forcing myself to fit in dessert. 

Oh and the wine! I’m not a huge wine girlie. And I lean way farther white than red but I felt like going red. The wine menu was quite overwhelming for a simpleton such as myself, and I ended up picking something they were out of, alas the owner/sommelier (?) recommended the – best – red – I’ve ever had. So we split a bottle. It was perfect, and I’ll be eternally grateful for that night for the rest of my life. But – should’ve had dessert. 

* IGP Foie Gras is a standard of strict quality, traceability & origin. The process also involves overseeing by certified bodies involved in the quality of feed, access to grass runs and strict rules on hygiene practices. 

Rainy Sunday morning in Paris and everyone’s sleeping in. We bundled up, it never rained terribly hard while we were there – and headed south. The plan was to walk along the Seine, stop for brunch, loop the tower and go explore. I had a little spot in mind, a kiosk “Food Briezh” on the bank of the river serving up galettes, which, in France, are savoury buckwheat crepes, I opted for a sunny side egg, ham & emmental. Warm and crispy and quite delicious. We split one perfectly, and accompanied by a wee hot cocoa. 

Satisfied, we continued strolling on along the river, the Eiffel Tower is no needle in a haystack I’ll tell you that much. Thor jokingly brought up taking the stairs, the elevator is a double level scam, but it’s free to wander underneath and I personally had no desire to summit. What’s the iconic Paris skyline without the tower in it? So we frolicked about until the wind started picking up – I was somehow scarfless – so we headed back towards the 9th, swinging by the Arc de Triomphe as all roads seem to lead. 

We had a little bed rot, maybe a nap if you must know, then headed up to the cult classic “Bullion Pigalle”. It’s chaos. They must move thousands of tables through daily, there seems to be a constant, albeit fast moving, line out the door. Two floors, ample waitstaff, affordable plates and all the French classics, adequately executed. We went escargot, steak frites & beef bourguignon. Crème brûlée to finish, split. Dessert was the highlight. I used to make it on the regular but I haven’t in years, and I’ve missed it. The steak was okay – I’m incredibly spoiled with steak at home, and the beef bourguignon also just okay (imo) as Thor and I are both well versed in a red wine braised stew with veg. Escargot was nice, garlic herb butter, like a muscle meets an oyster – but very petite, less shelfishy. By the time we finished up at 1030 the line had respawned itself. We snagged a couple metro cards in preparation, toodled back to the hotel in the misty rain and hit the hay. We had Monday plans!

Monday. Patchy blue skies as we head 2 minutes up to the metro, croissant & pan au chocolat in hand. Thors rain man level metro skills delivered us to the Louvre in perfect time, one transfer. Timed entry tickets for 10, queued up, no line movement until 10 on the dot. I’d recommend lining up quite a bit earlier than your allotted time, we were there by 940. But, with the Louvres popularity nowadays I think it’s going to be busy at any time. We spent a total of 4.5 hours inside, including a break for lunch. Highlights were the insane Mona Lisa situation & Nike – The Winged Victory of Samothrace. Both very very busy spots. The chaos unfortunately took away from the atmosphere. And the Mona Lisa seemed so alone. I also thoroughly enjoyed the ornate ceilings, there were countless stunning pieces, The Virgin Nursing Child, the massive Egyptian Exhibit, Napoleons Hall. Far too much to go over. We used Rick Steves Audio Guide which went well, and started in the Denon wing. 

Monday afternoon was spent with our feet up and snacking on cheese & meat in bed while reading, I finished up my book, The Beauty of Us, which was alright, a little nap and an easy late dinner of shawarma kebab. Google reviews were all over the place, some say slap, some say mid, I’d say mid slap. 

Our final day was spent having a lazy brunch & walking & window shopping through Galeries Lafayette. Brunch was at Buvette, nearby the hotel in the 9th. I’d had an amazing croque madame and Thor ventured sweet (highly unusual) having a pain perdu – brioche with berries in a cognac crème. Translates to “lost bread” – France’s take on French toast, but so much better than the westernized version. Bread pudding meets flan with a delectable sauce. Both utterly divine. The smells on the street. Not trash, delicious delicious things. Boulangeries, patisserie’s, bistros. Collecting treats and getting organized for our Wednesday transfer. Chausson, pistachio babka with coffee/tea and a ferrero pan au chocolat for saving. We ended up squeezing in a visit to the catacombs, which is squeezable in my opinion. And steep, at almost $100 Canadian for a half hour self guided tour, jostling past people taking selfies. The bones of roughly 6 million, displaced and reorganized, and open to the public since 1809. I was hoping for a final dinner at Le Récamier for soufflé but, alas, by the time we arrived at 830 there was an hour wait, and I had worked up too much of an appetite – so it defaults to Thors pick and we went for Lebanese, legitimately delicious mixed plates. We took the metro back to the 9th and tried to get a bit of rest before our Ryan Air flight out of Beauvais at a god awful time and bid adieu to the lovely city of Paris.