Six months tomorrow. That’s my usual post trip blogging process. Let the nostalgia kick in and reminisce.

It was a blustery Saturday last October, our flight out of little Powell River thankfully departed and we arrived in the big city with ample time before our overseas flight. We did end up with a bit of a delay, we had enough wiggle room in Heathrow to accommodate small hiccups. 

I was traveling with my dear friend Caty, whom I’ve known for over a decade and had the honour of being one of her bridesmaids in her wedding years ago. She’s a sagittarius and we balance each other out well. She’s always up for adventure and hardly ever lets an experience pass her by, calm and collected and seemingly always in a good mood.

We arrived in Heathrow with a bit of rest, a proper red eye, leaving just after 9pm and arriving at 3pm with 3 hours for connecting. Then our little flight up to Inverness was a quick hour and a half, getting us in just after 8pm local time. We collected the rental car (they’ll give them to anyone!) and were off to town to find somewhere to rest our heads and a bite to eat. The airport is about half an hour away, on quiet country roads – perfect for getting accustomed to driving on the wrong side of the road! Parking was a bit tricky, per always, the hotel directed us to a parking facility relatively close by. I don’t think either of us were ready for how genuinely adorable Scotland was going to be. Immediately upon arrival it was rainy, windy and cozy. Oozing with cobblestone streets and historic buildings. Walking back to the hotel after finding a safe place for the car helped us get a lay of the land. Inverness is a relatively small town, very walkable and honestly a perfect jumping off point for our Scottish adventure. 

Unfortunately it was a Sunday, and they take their days of rest very seriously, so most everything was closed. I had an inkling we could still snag a local delicacy – the munchie box. Because, although it was a Sunday, the pubs were open, and that meant the drunkards would need snacks for sobering up. Just as weary travellers would need a little greasy treat in their bellies before hitting the hay. Just a block away from our cozy Royal Highland Hotel was the neon dream “AKZ Fastfoodz”, offering sad pizzas, fried from frozen items and the like. It didn’t matter to me. We secured a munchie box, opted to dine in and only had one friendly inebriated man asking about our plans for Scotland. Chips, donair meat, naan, chicken strips and tandoori chicken, dips, crispy cold sodas. The farthest thing from a trad meal, but that’s fine sometimes. You take what you can get in life and make the best of it. 

We explored around the neighbourhood and happened across a wee Scottish pub playing live music, an (assumed) brother duo with an accordion and good energy. We sat in and enjoyed a couple beverages, coming up on midnight we teetered back to our room and snuggled in to our wee single beds in the peak ceilinged room near the square. Travel day success.

Day One

Monday October 20th

Exploring Inverness 

We treated ourselves. Within reason of course. We slept in, explored the town and had a delicious full Scottish breakfast at an adorable nearby cafe, Girvans. Two eggs, black pudding, (back) bacon, pork sausage, fried tomato, tatty (potato) scone, beans and toast. And a cup of tea, of course. It was everything I’d dreamt it would be. A hearty start for our first day.

We checked out Leaky’s Bookshop, wandered a medieval cemetery, walked along River Ness  to the botanical gardens for a tea and treat, saw the Inverness Castle and did some shopping – the quintessential green knitted sweater. 

Since the weather cleared up we decided to drive just north of Inverness to see the Culloden Moor, where the battle of Culloden was fought almost 300 years ago in 1746. It was a short bloody battle, with the Jacobites, lead by Charles Edward Stuart, lovingly known as Bonnie Prince Charlie (remember for tomorrow) the troops literally brought knives (swords) to a gun fight, albeit cannons and muskets, but still. The Jacobites were also severely outnumbered, exhausted and attempting to charge on flat mucky ground, to which the British had literally seen coming. Roughly 2000 Jacobite soldiers were killed and the land became a memorial site for them as well as the drastic suppression of highland tradition. Post battle the British government troops hunted down rebels and supporters and executed, imprisoned or shipped them off. Many Highland traditions were restricted in an effort to maintain control, from carrying weapons to wearing traditional tartans and kilts. It wasn’t until the 1800’s and 1900’s until Scottish culture revived these iconic symbols.

While north of Inverness we paid a visit to another monument just 5 minutes away. Clava Cairns,  a prehistoric burial site, standing stones and stone mounds, roughly 4000 years old. The site is still a bit of a mystery. Large ominous burial sites, now roofless, two of three aligned to the midwinter solstice sunset, so at the very back of the chamber the dying light would illuminate the farthest depths of the stone chamber. The area was very peaceful, set beside the river with hardly anyone around, tucked between lush fields with sheep grazing. 

We headed back down to Inverness, tucked the car in for the night and popped into a department store, picked up some water bottles and provisions, road snacks and another charger as we blew one up immediately. Girlie things. We had a mediocre supper at Scotch & Rye, my bad, western pub food, and moseyed over to The Hootenanny for some live music. Charming and wholesome Scottish singers. We tucked in relatively early, it was our first big driving day coming up and had to be well rested!

Day Two, Inverness to Skye

Tuesday October 21st

Highland Cows & Eilean Donan

Our first stop heading south was Urquhart Castle, situated on the shores of Lock Ness. Driving was actually a breeze, we had eSims (of course) and the car had a navigation system and all the whistles. The roads were well kept, albeit a bit narrow with high limits. The castle and grounds were lovely, we hadn’t exactly scheduled in much of a visit though and decided the entry and parking wasn’t going to be worth a quick boo as we had another engagement lined up. We popped back to the visitors centre we had just passed and awaited our farm transfer vehicle, an old mini van, sprinkled with hay. Farmer Ian shuttled us back to his hillside croft to meet his dear highland herd. Farming isn’t what it used to be, and many local farms are coming to rely on dipping into the tourist bracket. Once a day Ian brings a fresh group of travellers up to meet Flora, Rosie, baby Mabel and Rusty. Half the herd is friendly enough to hand feed treats to while they pose for pictures and get a few pets in. While we were there some big little lambs were not so patiently awaiting their bottles, so we took care of that as well. It was a delightfully wholesome way to spend our morning and a definite highlight to the entire trip. Ian brought the group back to the centre after an hour or so and we were off, castles and country to see!

We spent an hour on the road before stopping to stretch our legs and have a wee snack. We stopped at Kintail Lodge in Invershiel, where there was a little shop selling tea and treats, where I was quite pleased to find a delectable eccles cake, a favourite. We were back on the ocean, a beautiful dreary day, sprinkling on and off but mild. Just around the bend, another 15 minutes was the incredibly picturesque Eilean Donan Castle, one of the most visited sites of the Scottish Highlands. Originally constructed in the 12th century and levelled to the ground multiple times, due to Scotlands feudal history, lying in ruins from 1719-1911. The castle and  arched bridge is finally rebuilt in the early 1900’s, taking 20 years, and is opened to the public in 1955. The interior is  magnificently kept and almost entirely open to the public as well. Narrow stone stairways lead to great rooms, dining halls, fully intact bedrooms and kitchen. Staff were onsite to answer any questions and were friendly and kind, gently reminding folks that no pictures are permitted inside. We spent almost 2 hours at the site, exploring inside and out. By the time we were heading out it was getting quite a bit busier, and the sun was also trying its best to poke through the clouds. 

We crossed the bridge to Isle of Skye and headed to the north end to find our hotel, the Flodigarry Hotel. On the grounds of the hotel is the original cottage of Flora MacDonald, now fully refurbished for accommodations as well. The story of Flora and Bonnie Prince Charlie is an old romantic love story, with Flora aiding in the Princes escape after the Jacobite defeat at the battle of Culloden, he was a fugitive on the run and Flora, at just 24, disguised the Prince as her Irish maid and they sailed off to Skye. Flora was found liable, and did a stint in the Tower of London. She was released a year later, never to see the Prince again.

Skye did not fail to deliver on spectacular vistas and views, the weather was dramatic and etherial, light showers followed by the sun dramatically breaking through the thin veil of cloud. We arrived at almost 6, had a lay down and got dressed for dinner. The Flodigarry, while amazing, is a touch isolated, so it was nice to not have to head out to find supper. Our meal was lovely, but the real cherry on top was dessert. We shared a dark chocolate torte, with honeycomb, aerated chocolate, Cranachan ice cream and fresh blackberries, it was a perfect treat, and a hot milky cup of earl grey. We were off to bed, we had another big day coming.

Day Three, Exploring Skye

Wednesday October 22nd

Old Man of Storr & Neist Point

We slept and had a restful morning. Hearty breakfasts, eggs, sourdough and mushrooms, lots of tea and breathtaking views. We left for our first stop, the Kilt Rock viewing area, where Mealt Falls plunges 90m off of a hexagonal rock cliff directly into the churning ocean and jagged rocks below. Kilt rock garners its name from the basalt rocks that form hexagonal columns, they harbour a resemblance to the pleats of a kilt. We were lucky enough to have a double rainbow appear just off the falls while we were visiting, bringing even more magical beauty to the view. We were just up the road from our next stop, the hike up to Old Man of Storr, the weather was holding and the parking lot and roadside was jammed. Overflow parking had a bit of room, so we geared up and were on our way up, roughly 45 minutes up, 5 minutes at the top and 20 minutes back down. It’s a bit of a haul, steady incline but definitely worth it for the view, and a nice chance to get our blood pumping after sitting days. 

From there we headed west to Neist Point, another iconic landmark. First stopping in Glendale to see the cutest little general store on the planet and a treat & tea from Cafe Lephin. The weather was clear and crisp on the coast, the kind of wind that fills your lungs for you, and made for a beautiful blustery walk down to the lighthouse. It’s now an automated system, but was manned for almost 80 years between 1909 and 1990. We enjoyed the windswept vistas and headed back to Portree for a hearty bowl of Cullen Skink at the Lower Deck, a rich fish chowder made with smoked haddock, potatoes onions and cream, served with warm homemade bread. Back to the Flodigarry for our last night on the island, heading to Fort William in the morning! 

Whisky soaked apricot, honeyed flapjack crumb before departure

Day Four, Skye to Fort William

Thursday October 23rd

Castles & Castles

We started our day heading north to Duntulm Castle Ruins, built in the 14th century, abandoned since 1732 and now just a faint remnant of what once stood. In its heyday the castle had a four storey tower, a curtain wall protecting a house as well, the only entrance was a narrow entrance in the sea cliff. The castle was abandoned in 1732 when the then owner built a new residence just 5 miles south, pillaging the castles stone as building material. According to local legend the castle was abandoned after the child of the Sir Alexander MacDonald fell from a window into the rocky sea below, as punishment for the nursemaid on duty she was off into the sea on a small boat, never to be seen again.

We continued on, hoping to see the Museum of Island Life, unbeknownst to us it was closed for the off season, but there was a cemetery and memorial for Flora MacDonald to check out. We continued on the Trottenish Loop to the Fairy Glenn, about half an hour further. The Fairy Glen is a landscape unlike any other, small steep hills, plateaus and (unfortunately) stone circles made by tourists about a decade ago. The locals are apparently a bit peeved by the entire situation, trying to undo the “sham stone circles”. The hills were formed by glacial landslides over 100,000 years ago, erosion and the elements continue to shape the sandstone into mystical terrain. Our visit was short and pleasant, until we got back to the car and saw we (and everyone parked on the side of the road) got parking tickets. The small parking lot was full on our arrival and we followed suit (first mistake) and parked in line with the other tourist vehicles. There was no signage saying we couldn’t, and we tried to stay to the side, which apparently was improper. Scotland’s not Canada I guess. 

We stopped for a hot bowl of soup and a pot of tea at Gasta in Broadford before fueling up and crossing the bridge back to the mainland. In hindsight I was really into soup and bread in Scotland. We were taking turns driving, and it was my day behind the wheel. The roads were quite narrow on Skye, with many single lane roads out in the country with pull out spots for when there was oncoming traffic. The limits were surprisingly high, sometimes 60mph on main rural roads, which we basically never did because of the nature of the roads, sheep, blind corners, and of course, inexperience. 

We were hoping to get the Fairy Pools on Skye as well but the road was closed for an accident, possibly related to inclement weather, and in hindsight would’ve stretched our day too long. We crossed the bridge around 3:30 and made it to our next castle in the Scottish Highlands at 4:30, Invergarry. 

Invergarry Castle was mostly in ruins after being partially blown up in the aftermath of the Battle of Culloden, as part of the suppression, and it is said that Bonnie Prince Charlie had rested there after his defeat in 1746. The well built walls have held for almost 200 years now, even after the demolition of the southeast wall and northwest extension. The once massive six storey L-plan tower house was built with stones passed hand by hand by a train of clansmen, sourced from Ben Tee mountain, as was clan tradition. 

About an hour later we arrived in Fort William, just before 6. The hotel was no Flodigarry, with springy floors and jarring overhead lighting, but it would do. The dining options were a tad limited and we ended up getting some rather delicious muscles, fries and a salad from a food truck at a local golf course. It was perfect and we hit the hay with our books. 

Day 5 Exploring Fort William

Friday October 24th

Glenfinnan Viaduct & Lunch in a Train

Scottish Maccas! What’s a road-trip without out some American fast food. We were up and out before 9 to see the train, not just any train, the Jacobite Steam Train, originally built in 1901 to connect the remote Atlantic coast to Glasgow. The construction of the railway began in 1899 and was in operation from 1901 to 1967. British Rail decided to cease the use of steam locomotives in ’67, while the service was reintroduced in 1984 by Scot Rail after a surge in interest from tourists. Nowadays it’s renowned as the Hogwarts Express, being featured in every (8!) Harry Potter film.

You can now ride the steam train from Fort William to Mallaig, an 84 mile round trip, taking roughly 6 hours, including a 2 hour stop for lunch. Which, in hindsight, I’d highly recommend, and I’d build into the itinerary if/when I go back. With our limited amount of time we decided to opt for viewing the train crossing the iconic 21 arch viaduct, which is also not to be missed. It really is a magical setting, as the train comes around the bend, pauses on the bridge and releases billows of steam clouds and whistles before dashing off into the hills of the Highlands.

Lucky for us, we squeezed in our visit on the last day of the season, October 24th. And it was (almost free) – except for parking, which is never free, ever. 

Next up was the Glenfinnan Station Museum, while, small, it is a wealth of information on the building and operation of the line, with a retired train operator on site giving demonstrations on the train whistle code. We picked up a couple postcards for the stash, and later in town found a post office hawking pricey overseas stamps for us, which one of never arrived. 

We then headed up Ben Nevis, a 6 hour hike up, just kidding, we took the gondola, the only mountain gondola in the UK. Ben Nevis is the highest point in the UK, and while the gondola brings you up to 650m elevation from 100m, you’re still definitely not at the summit. It was a brisk day up top and we briefly explored before getting a cup of tea in the cafe and heading back down. We spent the afternoon on High Street in Fort William, picking up gifts before tucking in for a whisky tasting and dinner. Verdict? We don’t like whisky. 

Day 6 Fort William to Glasgow

Saturday October 25th

Massacres, Chocolates & Tea Readings

We started the day at the Glencoe Visitors Centre. An informative museum displaying a historically rebuilt turf house, showing how people lived in 1692, when the Massacre of Glencoe took place.  

The massacre took place on February 13th 1692. More than 30 members of the MacDonald clan were killed by government soldiers after the clansmen offered shelter and hospitality for nearly two weeks before the soldiers received orders from higher authorities to attack. The attack happened because the MacDonald clan failed to pledge allegiance to the new monarchs by January 1st 1692, which was missed by only a few days. The harsh punishment was a striking example of government brutality and treachery and became a lasting symbol in Scottish history. 

We had a quick breakfast in the cafe, Scottish scones with clotted cream and jam, and a pot of tea, before hitting the road, following the coast south to Oban. Prior to Oban we stopped along the seaside to see Castle Stalker, which was surprisingly difficult to even pull off for, with most shops closed up for the off season and signage not permitting stopping or parking, anywhere. 

Castle Stalker is set on a tidal island, believed to have been built around the 1440’s and in a drunken bet was passed to the Campbell clan around 1620. The castle was then abandoned by the Campbells in 1840 when the roof was lost. The castle is currently privately owned and has been fully restored, open to the public a couple times a year in the summers. 

We hit the road again, heading south and stopping at our next castle, Dunstaffnage, one of Scotlands oldest stone castles. Beautifully kept grounds, friendly staff – a sweet older gentleman at the gift shop/ticket counter, and well preserved ruins. The grounds are also home to an 800 year old chapel in the woods. The castle was built in the 1200’s, during the struggle for control of the Hebrides between Scotland and Norway. In 1746 the castle tower served as a short lived prison for Flora ManDonald on route to the Tower of London, where she served a (gentle) year. 

Down the coast to Oban, a delightful port town that really could’ve used a couple days of exploring and island hopping. We started our visit at McCaig’s Tower, set atop Battery Hill, you get a lay of the land, from Oban Bay towards the islands of Kerrera, Lismore and Mull. During our lunch at Coasters we saw the Caledonian MacBrayne coming into dock, known locally as the CalMac, a large ferry connecting many of the inner and outer Hebrides to the mainland. After lunch we tucked around the corner to Oban Chocolates for a couple treats before heading for Glasgow. We stopped by Inveraray Castle but unfortunately didn’t quite have enough time to explore. Next time! 

It was about 3 hours to Glasgow, our first time on proper multi-lane highways and multi-lane roundabouts, but everything went smoothly and we arrived in Glasgow with time to spare. Even scoring some free street parking as it was after 5 on a weekend. What a rush. We had a bit of a boo around town and got eyes on the Willow, where we’d be attending a show that night. 

I had booked an “experience” on a whim, a psychic fortune teller clairvoyant, Cara Hamilton and a tessomancy workshop with Avi Lago at Mackintosh at the Willow. With canapés and cocktails included! We were initially seated with a lovely local mother daughter duo, enjoying drinks and snackies, before being sequestered upstairs for the tea leaf reading to commence. My leaves showed a key, in a “near future” setting (6 months) which may of may not mean: unlocking of new opportunities, literally a potential move, deciding on who to trust, and decisions about the future. 

After our tea we headed back downstairs for a captivating night with Cara. She was entirely entertaining, mesmerizing and informative. From true stories to spirits, it was an evening well spent and definitely a highlight of the trip.

Cara called me up for the finale of the night, a tarot reading. From which I pulled two cards the 6 of cups and empress card, both of which were personally meaningful. Whether I connect with being blessed with a full cup, being able to rely on myself, the significance of a period of growth. The empress card is generally a positive omen, and I’ll take that for what it’s worth. Cara also saw a future life, 10 years,  of relocating internationally. Which sounds realistic. See ya Canada!

Twas a long day and we tucked in for the night at Crossbasket Castle, on the outskirts of Glasgow. I had a relaxing bubblebath before snuggling into a very cozy comfy bed with my book, tea and cookie, looking forward to a restful night and the continental in the morning. 

Crossbasket Castle had been beautifully restored, being classified as derelict less than 20 years prior. It’s amazing what £9 million and 5 years of painstaking work can do. The castle was set to be developed into apartments in 2008, which fell through, leaving the building empty and at risk. It was then purchased by a local couple and was reopened as a 5 star hotel in 2016.

Day 7 Glasgow to Dumfries

Sunday October 26th

Castles in Rainstorms 

Glasgow was our shortest stay for sure, which was unfortunate. I’d loved to have spent a few days at least. The weather had changed since leaving Skye, now down right stormy. Which was perfect. I was hoping for some moody weather. We had each brought rain jackets and boots, and the temperatures were still mild enough that we weren’t cold. We departed Crossbasket after a beautifully prepared eggs benedict, chocolate croissants, pot of tea, fresh fruit and mimosas (thanks Michael!). 

We departed Glasgow and headed southwest to Dunure, to the castle ruins on the edge of a rocky promenade, overlooking a boiling sea. The castle has been in ruins since the mid 17th century, slowly falling into ocean below. We went for a little walk through Dunure and I picked up a couple little locally made gifts, Harris tweed zippered pouches made from recycled fabrics. Very cute and easy to pack.

We arrived shortly after at Culzean Castle, (pronounced cull-ane) the grounds – an impeccable fairytale where you can step into a literal Disney-esque dream. It would’ve been the bees knees if the torrential downpour didn’t soak us to the core and we were blessed with a rainbow or two. Alas, parking was a ways away. 

The castle, which sits within a 240 acre estate, was built/ renovated between 1777-1792. As you enter you are faced with one of the largest collections of military flintlock pistols in the world. In a great dining hall, fully set, there is a menu for the Christmas dinner of 1868. As you meander through opulent sitting rooms, up the grand staircase to well appointed apartments adorned with massive oil paintings. Each filled with treasures and artifacts, stories of those that once called the castle home. Faint steps of the 7 rumoured ghosts haunt the halls and shadows. 

The castle boasts a beautifully preserved Georgian kitchen, adorned with polished copper pots & pans and wood fired stoves. The old kitchen was in use for nearly 100 years, hosting meals in sheer excess. Historical records dating back to the late 19th century, with everything accounted for, from cases of wine to rabbits. During one Christmas week, 21 people consumed 96lbs of beef, 87lbs of mutton, 5 turkeys, and 171 eggs. The cellars beneath the kitchen connect to the sea caves on the shore, a labyrinth used to store smuggled contraband goods, spirits, wines tobacco and tea at one point – mostly in the mid 1700’s. Later used more so for storage and convenience. 

It was still very stormy on our departure, so we didn’t take in the grounds or head to the shore to see the gated up cave entrances. We left around 1:30, stopping for a late lunch, the weather rained itself out momentarily as we cruised along the coast. We then turned inland and popped through some very adorable small towns, character maxing. Desirable to say the least. 

Narrow roads and rolling hills, we scooted along until reaching Dumfries at 4:30 to a very deserted hotel. Not a soul to be seen, locked up, an old amazon package at the side door and no one answering the phone. Strange. We made some last arrangements and stayed closer to town, within walking distance to a pub where we indulged in some fried haggis and watched the footy game. Some inebriated older Scottish gentlemen bough us drinks are were generally harmless, one had a dog inside so they couldn’tve of been that bad. All in all, entertaining. We had a bit of a disrupted night, with some sort of terrible alarm going off outside our door, which I informed hotel staff of but she seemed keen on not caring. She gave me the code to silence it, but that only worked for a period of time, a bummer. 

Day 8 Dumfries to Edinburgh 

Monday October 27th

Rolling into Edi 

We woke up bleary eyed and got the heck out of dodge. It was time to get to Edinburgh! 

We did have one stop – we arrived at Wilton Lodge Park and the Hawick Museum, the one time home of the Langlands – my friend Caty’s ancestors. It was a beautiful museum, free to enter, with exhibits ranging from oddities to war memorials. After we dipped in to the cute town of Hawick and had a light lunch, perused the shops and found a lovely man selling beautifully made sweaters. 

We got into Edinburgh, to our AirBnB on the Royal Mile just before 4, unpacked the car and headed back out. It was tourist chaos. Beautiful cobblestone streets, single lane alleys, and hoards upon hoards of spacey tourists. We headed north and managed to find free(!) parking on the outskirts, (thanks reddit) as we wouldn’t be driving anywhere during our stay and there is no such thing as street parking. It was a bit of a haul, admittedly, but we needed the exercise, and had planned on getting an uber back with our luggage when we were set to leave. It took us an hour to find a suitable trustworthy spot, up in Leith, and 45ish minutes to hustle back. Mostly downhill, which was nice. It was clear and cool, we got a lay of the land and were back before dark.

We decided to self cater and picked up a little Tesco haul from a couple minutes away. Cheese, crackers, crisps, yogurt, fool, scones and clotted cream, butter, fresh berries, broccolini, scotch pies, and laundry pods. It was fresh laundry time at the AirBnb! We both packed light, just small carry on luggage and backpacks, so not a lot of room for much. We had a little dinner and a movie night, each did a load of clothes and relaxed. It was perfect. We could unpack and reorganize for a couple days, we’d be in the big city for 3 nights. More walking days than driving for a change.

Day 9-10 Edinburgh 

Tuesday October 28th & 29th

Edi Tourist Things

We got up and had a relaxing morning, tea and scones, which I’m craving again now. It was a crisp fall day, blue skies and hoards of tourists. We started on the Royal Mile, down to Princes Street, grabbed a couple books from Waterstones, back through the gardens, Grassmarket, down to Greyfriars Bobby for a wee pet. We checked out the National Museum in the afternoon before retiring to our abode, opting for Thai takeaway and another quiet night in. The next few days were equally nourishing. No timeframes, no rush. Just wandering around a picturesque city. Avoiding rain squalls, tucking into museums, collecting little treats and writing postcards. 

The highlights of day 10 consisted of the best hot chocolate of my life and the National Portrait Galleries & a ghost tour – chefs kiss. Moo Pie is, I believe, primarily a hole in the wall gelato shop, but come October the hot beverages are a must. The best hot chocolate on earth starts with your preference regarding milk/dark, malt, 55%-70% dark, I went with 55%, topped with toasted marshmallow fluff and a pinch of chocolate shavings. Perfection. Utter perfection. I’m sure their gelato also slays. We love a well executed dream.

The National Portrait Gallery was amazing as well, set within a magnificent gothic palace – a work of art in itself – with a large selection of arts ranging from historic portraiture, contemporary works and exhibits. A personal favourite was the anonymous painting of the execution of Charles I, 1649.

We headed upstairs to view the current exhibit, photography by Alfred Buckham.

“Buckham served as an aerial reconnaissance photographer during the First World War, taking images from the air to aid military intelligence. It was an extremely dangerous occupation, with life expectancy measured in days not years.

During the war he crashed a terrifying nine times. His descriptions of these crashes are vivid with one being particularly memorable. When I discovered myself again, I was head foremost in a particularly wicked bush, which was doing its best to indicate the intrusion was unwelcome. But when I endeavoured to extricate myself it became positively cantankerous; and what I called that bush none but myself will ever know.

He emerged relatively unscathed from the first eight crashes but the final accident, over Rosyth in Fife, was serious. He suffered a throat injury leading to the removal of his larynx and relied on a tube to breathe for the rest of his life. In 1919 he was discharged from military service on a full pension. Despite this, Buckham continued to pursue aerial photography after the war.

Buckham’s photographs demonstrate his love of flying. He dashed through rainbows, soared through billowing clouds and gleefully looped the loop in his quest to convey the joy of being in the air.

The exhibition revealed the man behind some of the most iconic aerial photographs, and showed the death-defying lengths he took to capture the perfect image. It explored how his innovative techniques paved the way for modern technologies such as Photoshop and AI.”

• National Galleries

The exhibit was quite interesting, with interactive displays, explaining Buckham’s process with overlays to achieve his finished product. His aerial view of Edinburgh was a personal favourite and I managed to pick up a print in the gift shop. Buckham’s works were on display from mid October to April 2026, and the hall was rather busy, which was great to see. 

We wrapped up at NPG and headed back towards the Royal Mile, tucking through the Old Assembly Close, an old alleyway connecting to the old town. Originally gated private property, there are over 250 historic steep narrow walkthroughs throughout the city, offering a glimpse into 17th century life in Edinburgh. We passed Lady Stair’s Close and the Writers Museum, which we unfortunately didn’t fit into our visit. 

We popped out for a bite to eat before our last commitment in Edinburgh, a walking tour/ghost tour with Mercat, starting off in the Blair Street underground vaults – just down from our AirBnB. You descend into the dark dank chambers, built in the 1780’s, once upon a time housing legitimate merchants and cobblers before being taken over by illegal taverns, bootleggers and the impoverished. 

The story goes that bodysnatchers would store corpses overnight before being sold off to medical schools for fresh cadaver dissection or anatomy lectures. Not to be confused with grave robbers, who merely pillage the burial sites for sellable goods. The issue of rampant grave disturbing was eventually dealt with by installing mortsafes, imposing iron cages, on first glance, they appear like they’re designed to trap the dead in their graves as well. We wandered Greyfriars Kirkyard Cemetery, walked Cowgate, heard many a ghost story and lore. It was an enjoyable evening, and fitting as we were coming up on Halloween. 

Day 11 Edinburgh to Inverness 

Thursday October 30th

Castle Maxing 

Started the day with a gooseberry fool, iconic. We packed up and ushered back to the car, miraculously, she was there, unscathed. 

Our first detour was Midhope Castle, a beautiful 16th century tower house, the exterior is open to the public (with a ticket of course) and was actually rather busy as it’s a location on the Outlander series, to which Caty is a super-fan. We had a boo and carried on to Blackness Castle, known by the locals as “the ship that never sailed” due to its shoreline ship like layout. As this point it felt like castle-maxing as we headed across the bridge and north a couple hours to Castle Fraser. Magnificent grounds, and one of the most elaborate and largest tower houses in all of Scotland. We… unfortunately didn’t schedule in time to fully tour the castle and kept to the exterior. Next time. We were still a few hours out of Inverness and weren’t keen on being lost in the dark.

It turns out we were set to be driving our final leg into Inverness in quite the storm as we descended into darkness – wipers on full speed – in quite a bit of traffic. Like, at times gridlock merging chaos.  Multilane roundabouts in total darkness. Not lost, thanks to old Google Maps. But definitely taking google “shortcuts” that turn out to not actually be shortcuts and have you trying to turn onto a 4 lane highway across 2 busy lanes. We eventually arrived just after 7. Tired and hungry, with reservations to The Hootenanny – craving haggis – hard. We checked into the Columba Hotel, right on the river, found some pay parking at a church and hustled across the bridge. A 6 minute walk or a 5 minute drive. A beautifully walkable town, even in a storm. 

We slipped into The Hootenanny, heartwarming live music, packed with patrons and hospitable to the ends. We ordered a chicken liver pâté w/ red onion chutney and oat cakes to start and a couple haggis w/  a dollop of neeps & tatties, enrobed in whisky sauce. A glass of merlot and we were set. We each facetimed our mothers a bit of the live music, the accordion playing duo from our first night in Inverness. It was pleasant beyond measure. The rain let up a touch for our walk back and we hopped into our beds by 10, watching my first episode of Outlander. 

Day 12 Inverness

Friday October 31st

Souvenirs & Scottish Death Metal

The storm had passed and we woke to clear skies and a crisp fall day. We had girl breakfast at The Original Milk Bar, a few doors down. Outside in the sun beside the river Ness, a  hot chai and a blondie, before heading out to collect more souvenirs for the fam and costumes for the evening. Inverness actually really comitted to the bit with the costume shops, surprisingly festive. I went with a simple classy Nun outfit. Picked up the necessary magnets, keychains, and spurtles. 

Spurtle you say? A glorious 15th century traditional Scottish porridge stirring tool. A slender dowel, flat bottomed and carved at the top in the shape of a thistle – Scotlands national flower (use your imagination). Great for stirring porridge without causing any lumps. And super easy to pack. I actually use mine almost daily, as it turns out it’s the perfect tool for mixing sourdough starter. Love it to death. 

We had a chill day getting organized, finished up our postcards and applied stamps. Napped. Packed a bit. Hit up a supermarket to grab some Scottish present treats. We couldn’t get enough haggis, so we reserved at The Hootenanny, haggis as well as steak and ale pies, as well as a sticky toffee pudding to split. We zipped back to the hotel to get changed, had a lovely night at Tooth & Claw watching Cage the Ox and friends. It was a small venue, and it felt like the other attendees were friends and/or acquaintances of the bands – and we were obvious outsiders. Which was fine, if not humorous. We hit the hay relatively early.  

Day 13 Homeward Bound 

Saturday November 1st

Checking Out

Inverness truly was the prefect jumping off point for our Scottish adventure, seamless to depart from as well. The car drop off couldn’t be easier, keys in the box – done, 10:15. Inverness airport only has a couple gates and security was mild, 10:30am. Had some brunch in the terminal before flying out at 12:30am. We both checked our bags, as Caty had stocked up on booze and they offered to check mine free of charge. Even easier Heathrow navigation. We were in Heathrow from 2:30pm to 5:30pm and had a healthy early dinner, Yorkshire pudding burrito. Health. Our flight back to Vancouver was almost 10 hours and put us in at 8:30pm. I have no memories of said flight so it couldn’t have been bad. We stayed at the YVR Fairmont that night – ease – had a relaxing bubblebath before having a peaceful night before our 8am south terminal flight the next morning. 

And that’s it folks!